There’s no shortage of restaurants in the eastern Algarve, but they vary enormously in quality and price. Some of the most unassuming do the best food, and the price per head including wine can be less than a round of drinks in the UK. On the whole we avoid the posh ones as the food is generally no better than the less pretentious ones, but they’re more expensive and the service is not necessarily any better.
The same goes for those touristy restaurants in prime spots on the river or sea front. They get away with serving very average food at inflated prices. Head for the streets a little further back and you’ll be rewarded with much better food for far fewer euros.
Tavira
Our ’local’ is Jorge and Lia’s, on the road into Tavira from the boat island (i.e. the roundabout with the big bronze sculpture of a sailing boat called ’Vela ao Vento’). Sometimes we eat in, sometimes we’ll pick up a takeaway.
For the best pizzas and pasta we head for Mamma Mia’s or Byblos. They do great salads too.
If we’re in the middle of Tavira and fancy a bite of traditional Portuguese cuisine at lunchtime we’ll head for Bica.
For morning coffee, a spot of omelette and chips for breakfast (I’m not proud!), or a leisurely G&T before lunch we’ll hit Anazu. Equally good (in fact, their chips are better), but without the view is Café Mira. On a Saturday though, we tend to meet up with Mum and Dad at Princesa. It’s a little café on the outside edge of the covered market (by the concrete bridge), and it caters for the workers in the market. The prices are therefore very cheap and they do the best tosta mista (cheese and ham toastie) in Tavira.
If we’re celebrating, or do want to dress up a little of an evening, Brisa do Rio is our restaurant of choice. Although it’s Portuguese, the food is quite different to the standard grilled meat or fish with chips, rice, and salad and Luís always looks after us very well.
Santa Luzia
Santa Luzia abounds with excellent restaurants, many of which specialise in fish and octopus. A good way to try octopus is to pay Casa do Polvo a visit, as they serve tapas-style food in whole or half portions.
Our favourite lunchtime haunt is Sol e Mar, but in an evening we’ll tend to head to Canto Azul.
Alcaria do Cume
The magnificent Mesa do Cume is at this little outpost on the winding road to Cachopo. You really need to come here at lunchtime to appreciate the stunning views.
São Bras
This one is a bit of a trek, and quite a winding one at that once you’ve come off the main road, but it’s worth it. Rocha da Gralheira is actually a hotel and its speciality is the Brazilian dish, rodizio.
Algarve Beach Restaurants
The best yet is undoubtedly Sem Espinhas (meaning Without Fishbones) on Cabeço beach. It has an excellent menu with typical Portuguese food, fab views across the beach, and superb service. Not cheap though.